Prepare the Garden for Its Winter Slumber
By admin | November 15, 2008
For those who live through winter, the gardening
season is over. But not really. There IS work to do!
If you have not tidied up the garden, there is still
time before the ground freezes and is covered
with snow.
Pull out the rest of the annuals. It is too late to
trim any perennials, so leave these alone.
Mound mulch around your favorite rose bush
and other perennials. Some recommend piling
up leaves over perennials. Others don’t. The
argument is that leaves tend to rot. However,
if you’ve done this before and it works for
you, go for it.
Bring in your precious garden ornaments. Wash
and dry these before storage. Hanging baskets
should be taken down if you intend to re-use them
next year. Most urns and big planters are safe to
leave outdoors, except those made of terracotta
and other breakable materials. Planters made of
heavy duty polyresin, plastic,cast iron or metal can
withstand freezing temperatures.These can be
stashed away in a safe corner to keep them away
from snow removal. However, if you want color, decorate
these planters for the Christmas season. It adds a
festive mood to your garden.
Protect the spring bulbs by covering these with screen
material or a wire mesh and pile up mulch generously.
Those pesky four-legged creatures do not hibernate
over winter. Don’t forget to uncover these come Spring.
Take a good look at your garden, envision what
worked, what didn’t last summer. A bare garden plot
is a canvas waiting for someone to express creativity.
This is a chance for you to re-assess the arrangement
of plants. If you like a change of garden design for
next season, this is the best time to study the garden
layout to get a good idea what changes you will
undertake next season.
If you have rocks or stones in your garden, spend
some time to rearrange, to strengthen or fill in the
gaps. If you have ideas of adding more rocks, it’s
a good time to work on the garden while it ’s bare.
Don’t forget the garden tools. These will last
longer if you clean these up and store them
properly. Bring in the nozzles for your hose.
These tend to crack if left on the hose over
winter.
Tidbit: Store the rake, pitchfork , fan rake
and shovels facing downwards, or the wall if
you are lucky enough to have a place to hang these.
As you walk around your bare garden, feel the
aura of stillness it projects as it prepares for its
winter slumber. The garden at this time can
still be a place for a quiet moment as you fill your
lungs with the fresh and crisp chill of November.
Bonnie Moss writes to inspire and to motivate
her readers to explore the depths of their heart and
soul and make a difference in this world. She draws
from personal experience and her interest in the New Age
Visit her website =>http://goldencupcafe.tripod.com
Algae vs. Lichens in the Garden
By admin | November 13, 2008
What is your opinion on algae and lichens within the garden? Are you trying to discourage them or are you one of the select few who promote their growth. Let me introduce you to these algae and lichens, so you can make an informed decision.
Algae in glasshouses and polytunnels
Algae are the much-maligned green slimes found on ponds and as a greenish scum on paths and drives. You may be surprised to know algae is actually a garden plant, albeit a stem-less and non-flowering specimen. Over winter, disgusting greyish-green algae often builds up on the inside glass of our garden sheds, glasshouses and polytunnels. The solution is to trim back any surrounding planting to allow as much light as possible to enter. Also try to leave the doors and windows open for a few hours each week to prevent the build up of stagnant air. If some of the slightly powdery scum still builds up, you can wipe it off glass with a mild detergent, whereas on polytunnels only wipe the plastic with warm soapy water.
Algae control on steps and paths
Algae and mosses often coat paths and quite dangerously garden steps; damp shade is again a big factor. Reducing shade will cut down on the amount of algae and moss forming; by increasing the access of sunlight, you will also reduce dampness. The application of a copper sulphate solution (commonly known as bluestone) is a time honoured and effective way to combat algae on paths. When applied correctly it has a residual effect that prevents regrowth for up to several years after treatment. Mix copper sulphate or “bluestone” at a rate of 10 grammes to 10 litre of water in a plastic container. Apply on a dry day, brush in, and then leave it 3 weeks to act on the algae. After 3 weeks brush again with a stiff bristled brush and “hey presto”. When applying any algae or moss control solution remember to avoid drift onto surrounding lawns, plants and vehicles. Use protection equipment when applying chemicals including a mask with a dust cartridge, safety goggles and impervious gloves with overalls. Remember, apply all chemicals according to the manufacturer’s instructions and heed those safety warnings.
Lichens in the garden
However, what happens when this algae teams up with a fungus and the two start to live in a mutually advantageous association or symbiosis? Well, in that situation you get a plant form known as a lichen. A situation where lichens grow in abundance is on old carved stone headstones in graveyards. Many of the age-old stones will display white growths often containing bright yellow or orange splashes.When I have occasion to attend a funeral in a graveyard, I am always struck by the contrast between the mourner’s dark garb and the pings and flecks of white, yellow and orange lichen growth. These growths are the lichens, growing where other plants would falter Lichens are tough devils, if there was an SAS for the plant world they would be the first to enlist.
Growing your own lichens
I feel lichens have a place within the garden, they happen to be an accurate indicator of low pollution, no harm in that. Lichen growth also adds a considerable amount of character to feature rocks, boundary walls, terracotta containers and stone garden sculptures. If you would like to encourage this type of growth, try this recipe for “lichen slurry”. Mix one tablespoon of ground up lichen to one pint of natural yogurt or buttermilk and mix well. Paint or dab this slurry onto the object you wish the lichen to grow on, sit back and be prepared to wait, as fine-looking lichen growth is quite slow to form. But, worth it.
James Kilkelly runs a professional garden design service in Galway, Ireland. He has a regular gardening column in an Irish regional newspaper. Visit his website at http://www.gardenplansireland.com/ He also regularly posts his expert advice to a gardening forum at http://www.gardenstew.com.
Article’s original location: Algae vs. Lichens in the Garden
Tags: algae, fungus, lichens, mossGeraniums Galore - A Container Garden Delight
By admin | November 11, 2008
All over the country, geraniums flaunt their red and scarlet, rose, pink, and white blooms with a gay abandon that few other plants can rival. In boxes on city fire escapes and rooftops, in window boxes on suburban and country houses, in tubs and pots on terraces and patios, and in hanging baskets of the porches of summer cottages, they are beloved and cherished plants
It needs sun to bloom; it tolerates shade, where it is usually handled as a foliage plant. What it resents is too much moisture and a rich diet. Kept too wet, the leaves turn yellow; given a heavy soil, one high in nitrogen plants go to foliage and flower sparingly.
Even if you choose no other plants, you could have a varied potted garden of single and double zonal, fancy-leaved or variegated, scented-leaved, ivy and Lady or Martha Washington geraniums (also called show or fancy geraniums), not to mention a few oddities of cactus and climbing types.
The zonal geranium is characterized by dark circular markings on the rounded green leaves. Double types dominate the trade and are offered by florists in the spring for planting in gardens and window boxes.
Variegated geraniums, with leaves that are often brilliantly colored, are attractive even out of bloom. Set among green-leaved geraniums and other foliage plants, pots of the variegated plants add color and pattern.
The trailing, ivy-leaved geraniums are among the most profuse flowering when grown under favorable conditions. They dislike shade and high humidity and thrive best in climates with warm days and cool nights, as in California.
Lady Washington’s, considered the handsomest of geraniums, are not so easy to grow. Like the ivy-leaved, they prefer cool nights and warm, sunny days, preferring shelter from wind and all-day sun.
If you are a geranium gardener, you may want to spark your pot plant collection with some cactus and climbing geraniums. They will give you bizarre and fascinating forms and flowers and are certain to arouse comment.
Geraniums flourish and look well in pots, boxes, and planters. They thrive in various soil mixtures if drainage is good. For abundant bloom, however, supply a special preparation, not high in nitrogen, or lush foliage and few blooms will result. I have success with good garden soil and a sprinkling of a 5-10-5 fertilizer and bone meal. During the growing season, plants respond to a low-nitrogen fertilizer in liquid form.
When potting, be generous with drainage material to insure free passage of water. As with any plant, always water with care, since too much or not enough can be harmful. The best rule is to water when the surface of the soil feels dry. Then soak the soil well and do not water again until plants need it. If soil is kept too wet, leaves will turn yellow; if too dry they wilt and discolor.
To maintain even plant growth, turn containers from time to time. Remove yellow leaves and faded blossoms which are especially distracting on plants at doorways or any other key spots. If rain rots and disfigures the center florets of the heads, pull them off with your fingers, leaving the unmarred outer florets and buds.
If you want plants for next spring, take two- to four-inch cuttings in August or early September. Look for mature stems (with leaves spaced close together) that break easily like a snap bean. Woody growth is hard to root and succulent tips tend to rot. Before planting spread out cuttings in a shady place for several hours so leaves will lose excess moisture.
When ready to plant, cut off the lower leaves, allowing but two or three to each cutting. Also pull off the little wings on the stem, since they are inclined to rot. Dip stem ends in hydrated lime to prevent decay and then insert about halfway, in a flat or large pot of pure sand or a mixture of sand and peat moss. With geraniums, rooting powders are hardly necessary. When cuttings develop inch-long roots, they are ready for spacing out in another flat or for separate planting in 2
Tags: container garden, gardeners, geraniums, potted garden, spring planting, window boxes, zonal geranium